The New Generation of Lasers: What I’m Watching as a Skincare Founder

There was a time when “getting a laser” more or less meant one thing: an aggressive resurfacing treatment, significant downtime and, hopefully, dramatically smoother skin on the other side.

That’s no longer a very accurate way to think about lasers.

One of the most interesting changes happening in dermatology is how much more targeted energy-based treatments are becoming. Different wavelengths, pulse durations and delivery methods allow practitioners to target very different structures within the skin — from pigment and blood vessels to water and scar tissue.

And as a skincare founder, I find this space fascinating for another reason: lasers can address things that topical skincare simply cannot.

Here are some of the developments I’m paying attention to.

1. Picosecond lasers are moving beyond tattoo removal

Picosecond lasers deliver energy in extraordinarily short pulses — measured in trillionths of a second.

They initially became known for breaking up tattoo pigment, but dermatologists are now using picosecond technology for certain pigmentation concerns and acne scarring as well.

What makes this particularly interesting is the way the energy is delivered. Rather than relying solely on heat, picosecond devices can create a strong photoacoustic or photomechanical effect.

For acne scars, fractional picosecond technology is especially interesting. Instead of treating the entire surface uniformly, fractional delivery creates microscopic treatment zones intended to stimulate remodelling while leaving surrounding tissue relatively intact.
And there is growing clinical evidence behind it.

A meta-analysis comparing fractional picosecond lasers with other fractional lasers found similar improvement in atrophic acne scars, while the picosecond treatments were associated with less pain and a lower incidence of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in the included studies.

That last point is important because the risk of pigmentary changes after laser treatment has historically been an especially important consideration in deeper skin tones.

2. Acne-scar treatments are becoming much more individualized

Fractional CO₂ lasers have been used for acne scars for years, and they remain an important treatment.

They work by creating controlled microscopic injuries in the skin, triggering a wound-healing response and collagen remodelling.

But increasingly, the conversation isn’t simply, “Which laser is best for acne scars?”

It’s: What type of scar are we treating?

Rolling scars, boxcar scars and ice-pick scars have different structures, and increasingly sophisticated treatment plans may combine lasers with techniques such as subcision, microneedling, radiofrequency or other procedures.

That feels like an important evolution to me.

Rather than expecting one device to solve an entire condition, dermatology is becoming better at matching the treatment to the underlying anatomy.

3. Vascular lasers are getting more attention for persistent redness

If the problem is redness rather than pigmentation, the target changes.
Vascular lasers use wavelengths that can target haemoglobin within blood vessels. They can therefore be useful for concerns such as visible facial vessels and some of the persistent erythema associated with rosacea.

This is a perfect example of something skincare can struggle to address.
A topical product may help soothe irritated skin or support the barrier, but it cannot simply remove a dilated blood vessel.

A laser potentially can target that structure much more directly.

That distinction — between improving the environment of the skin and physically targeting a structure within it — is something I think consumers deserve to understand better.

4. Melasma is where I would be much more cautious

Melasma is often marketed alongside other pigmentation concerns, but biologically it is far more complicated.

And that means “just laser the pigment away” isn’t necessarily a good strategy.
Heat and inflammation can potentially contribute to pigment recurrence or worsening, particularly in people who are prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Picosecond and fractional technologies are being studied for melasma, and there are encouraging results. But the evidence doesn’t support treating a newer laser as a universal solution.

Recent research is a good reminder of this. While picosecond lasers can improve melasma in some patients, a 2026 meta-analysis of randomized trials found that triple-combination topical therapy produced greater improvement than 755 nm picosecond alexandrite laser treatment.

To me, that is exactly why “new” shouldn’t automatically be interpreted as “better.”
Melasma generally requires a thoughtful, long-term approach that considers UV exposure, visible light, pigment production, inflammation and recurrence — not just a device.

5. The bigger innovation may actually be precision

What I find most exciting isn’t necessarily one new machine.
It’s the movement toward precision.

Wavelength determines what absorbs the energy. Pulse duration changes how that energy interacts with tissue. Fractional delivery determines how much skin is treated at once. Cooling can help protect the epidermis.

Even seemingly small differences in settings can fundamentally change what a device is doing to the skin.

That also means the person operating the laser matters enormously.

The same technology can produce very different outcomes depending on the device, settings, skin tone, condition being treated and expertise of the practitioner.

The part we don’t talk about enough: the skin barrier

There’s another side of laser treatments that I think is particularly relevant from a skincare perspective.

Many procedures work precisely because they create controlled injury.

With resurfacing treatments especially, that temporarily changes the barrier.

Water loss can increase. Skin can become more sensitive. Redness and inflammation are expected parts of the healing response.

Which means the skincare surrounding a procedure isn’t an afterthought.

This is generally not the moment for an elaborate routine filled with exfoliating acids and multiple actives. Post-procedure skincare needs to be dictated by the procedure and your healthcare provider, but the priorities are usually much simpler: protecting healing skin, minimizing unnecessary irritation and supporting recovery.

So, would I get a laser?
Potentially — but I would choose the condition and practitioner first, and the device second.

I wouldn’t walk into a clinic because I’d heard that a particular laser was the latest technology.

I’d want to know:

• What exactly are we treating?
• Why is this wavelength or device appropriate for my skin?
• What evidence supports it for this particular condition?
• What’s the risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation for my skin tone?
• What downtime should I realistically expect?
• And what should I put on my skin before and after treatment?

That, to me, is where laser dermatology is becoming genuinely exciting.
Not because we’ve discovered a machine that can “fix” skin.
But because we’re getting better at understanding exactly what we’re trying to target — and how to do it with greater precision.